Borfokoló: 2014

(CNN) -- It may lie in Szepasszonyvolgy -- or what locals call the Valley of the Beautiful Women -- but the Golen Cellar isn't much to look at.

Nevertheless, behind this simple cavern's red doors, stenciled with the image of Bacchus, lie barrels of the best wine to be found in one of Hungary's most beautiful vineyard destinations.

Menoire is a half-sweet and fruity red wine, low in tannins.

My Hungarian mother, whose family once owned vineyards in the area, would bring me here amid the musty aroma of oak barrels and the waft of red onions on zsiros kenyer -- bread topped with lard, onion and paprika.

The wine would be decanted unceremoniously into a huge two-liter recycled Coke bottle.